Surfing Vietnam

23Mar09

Just read about the documentary film Between the Lines, the true story of two surfers in the Vietnam war, which sounds like its worth keeping an eye out for, no matter what your interest in surfing is. It’s not about “surfing” but about surfers in a war, if you know what I mean.

“When an 18-year-old Pat Farley first arrived in Vietnam, he kept hoping it was “all just a bad acid trip.” Despite wanting nothing else in life but to surf, he had volunteered for the army to get away from his poor Irish Catholic, alcoholic family. “I didn’t want to run from the FBI, I didn’t want to go to jail, I didn’t want to go to school, I just wanted to surf…”

“For the two years he would live in Vietnam, the avid surfer, used to spending his days hanging ten on his longboard, would never see the coastline.”

Full article here.

Overspill links

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